In every town there are temples of prominence. These temples tell a story of local history, they showcase art and they are what connect many Thai people to one central philosophy of living. To understand the history and the nature of a temple is to understand a community or an area.

In the Pua District, Wat Phuket (Temple Phuket) stands serenely on the hills of Northern Nan. It overlooks the ancient town of Ket, nestled in the valley between misty tropical mountains. An  imposing set of steep stairs leads to the main temple grounds. It is, as always, accompanied by the Naga: the ancient Buddhist snake creature which in Theravada Buddhist mythology protects the Buddha. The Naga, a monumental stone figure gracefully adorns the stairway up the hill. At the top you are greeted by a glittering gold Buddha surrounded by colourful silk shrouds peacefully waving about in the tall tropical trees. The temple overlooks the entire valley of the ancient town of Ket. Wat Phuket is a grand example of how Buddhism brought the people of Nan out of the forest and into the valleys where a complex civilisation was established. However, many of the ancient pagan traditions and mythologies are still practised till this day and can be observed in Ket. In the town of Ket women weave traditional silk and cotton dresses on rickety looms, much as their great grandmothers who farmed in the mountains would have done.

Wat Phuket is built in the Lan Na style, named after the Lan Na Kingdom. The Lan Na kings reigned supreme in Northern Thailand from the 13^th to the 15^th centuries. Its capital was in Chang Mai and it was renowned for converting mountain tribes from animistic beliefs to Theravada Buddhism. Many of the temples in this area are built in this style and Wat Phumin, located in the centre of Nan town, is perhaps one of the finest examples.

Wat Phumin was built in 1596 and named after the Lan Na king Phumin who ruled the northern highlands at the time. Inside the temple mural paintings show historical depictions of Thai life. These murals convey scenes of young lovers, royal processions, aristocratic gatherings and visions of Buddhist heaven and hell on a par with Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych The Garden of Earthly Delights.

The murals were painted by Nan artists in the 1800s. The images depict what life was like, but they also show us how life has remained constant. Thai social interactions and cultural practices which one can see in the town today echo this time. Outside the temple young lovers still whisper in each other ears, monks bless the morning devotees and wealthy Bangkok visitors in designer clothes stroll about.

The town of Phrae is about 100 km south of Nan Town, in Nan Province. Phrae was established in the 7^th century and was briefly ruled by the Khmers in the 10^th and 11^th centuries. This mountain town is home to a staggering 250 temples, but none so holy and important as Wat Phra That Cho Hae. Wat Phra That Cho Hae was built by the Lua people of Phrae, a hill tribe that migrated from Laos in the 18^th century. The Lua have deep animistic beliefs and maintain that the forests are filled with both good and evil spirits. In Nan the local spirit Marbi protects the inhabitants and brings them good luck, should they pay their respects. The Lua of Nan have largely converted to Theravada Buddhism, although they still practice their animistic beliefs. Wat Phra That Cho Hae is the temple that was largely responsible for the conversion of the Lua to Buddhism. This temple is also the centre of Buddhism in the province of Nan, and a pilgrimage to it brings particularly good karma. Under the temple lies an urn in which ashes of the Buddha himself are kept.

Although Wat Phra That Cho Hae was built in the 14^th century – like most other temples in the area –  one could be forgiven for thinking it is not even 100 years old given its pristine condition. Thai temples are not relics of the past but important contemporary sites connecting past and present, heaven and hell.

The Pagoda at Wat Phra That Cho Hae is an impressive 33m in height and covered in bronze. In the midday sun it is difficult to even look at it as the heat and light is so intensely reflected. Monks in turmeric-coloured robes silently drift past in calm and slow strides. I offer a lotus flower at the altar for the monks, light an incense stick to signify the three wisdoms: compassion, pureness and wisdom and I light a candle for the teaching and doctrines of the Buddha.

Temples are the museums of Nan. They are also the centre of these communities and a visit to a temple is a visit into the soul of a community.